There are 2 adjoining sites to this project. The first,
labeled "Primary Area", is outlined in yellow. The second,
(appropriately) labeled "Secondary Area", is outlined in black:
It's the yellow area that we are concerned with at the moment.
If the secondary area is covered, we'll still want to know, but you
should only make notes of the frames, don't take any pictures of
For reference, this is what the site looked like in 1971:
Matching this up to the map above shows that the Primary Area is
between the road running SW to NE (upper boundary) and a pond or
small lake (lower boundary). This should help you get your
bearings when looking at frames 1 thru 122.
You can also look at the topo map and satellite photo for the site
We've superimposed the overlay (in red) and the site (in blue) onto
a degree square map here.
We want you to shoot (20mp, 4:3 aspect ratio) pictures of frames 139
& 140 since they should cover this site at 1:38400 scale
(unmentioned on the index, but estimated from the frames
dimensions). Based on how close frames 123 to 140 would have
to be if they are actually a flight line, there might be other
frames that cover the site as well. Please shoot pictures of
any and all you find covering the site.
If you still have time, and since we don't have any index data for
the first 122 frames, we would like you to make note of which frames
start and end each flight line. You can probably do this as
you rewind the roll after you've got the actual research done.
The following are reminders about
Please determine whether or
the negatives are at original size (e. g. 9"x9") or have
been re-shot at reduced size (e. g. 70mm) and whether the original
negatives have been destroyed.
Check all the cans as soon
you receive them to make sure they can be opened. DO THIS BEFORE
ROLL OUT ANY OF THE FILM ON THE LIGHT TABLE.
Photograph each can's label at 2mp.
Take shots of the actual frames in 4:3
"squarish" mode at 20mp. While 9"x9" photos are
actually square, the 4:3 mode is a rectangular shape as close to
square as possible, if you frame a negative so that the top and
bottom of the negative are in the shot, for example, there will be
little extra space to the left & right of the frame. We expect
this "white space" effect and in fact actually prefer a
small amount of white space all the way around the image. We just
want as much of the camera shot filled with the negative as
without cropping off part of the negative. A single .jpg of the
frame is the best image for our purposes.
The tripod can be adjusted before
picture is taken. You don't have to rely solely on the camera's
don't forget you can connect the camera to your laptop
mounted on the tripod! Then you can
calibration shots before you shoot the frames.
Sometimes the camera's zoom-in steps
don't allow for the proper zoom-in adjustment. In these cases,
will be advantageous to "overzoom" into a shot and then
back the tripod away from the negative to fine tune the zoom-in.
AND FINALLY: DO NOT SEND ANY REPORT OR
IMAGES TO US IN AN EMAIL. WE WILL DISCUSS SENDING THE
INFORMATION TO US IN OUR NEXT PHONE CONVERSATION.