There are 2 adjoining sites to this project.  The first, labeled "Primary Area", is outlined in yellow.  The second, (appropriately) labeled "Secondary Area", is outlined in black:

Site Map

It's the yellow area that we are concerned with at the moment.  If the secondary area is covered, we'll still want to know, but you should only make notes of the frames, don't take any pictures of these frames.

For reference, this is what the site looked like in 1971:

1971 Site Image

Matching this up to the map above shows that the Primary Area is between the road running SW to NE (upper boundary) and a pond or small lake (lower boundary).  This should help you get your bearings when looking at frames 1 thru 122.

You can also look at the topo map and satellite photo for the site here:

We've superimposed the overlay (in red) and the site (in blue) onto a degree square map here.

We want you to shoot (20mp, 4:3 aspect ratio) pictures of frames 139 & 140 since they should cover this site at 1:38400 scale (unmentioned on the index, but estimated from the frames dimensions).  Based on how close frames 123 to 140 would have to be if they are actually a flight line, there might be other frames that cover the site as well.  Please shoot pictures of any and all you find covering the site.

If you still have time, and since we don't have any index data for the first 122 frames, we would like you to make note of which frames start and end each flight line.  You can probably do this as you rewind the roll after you've got the actual research done.

The following are reminders about taking pictures:

Please determine whether or not the negatives are at original size (e. g. 9"x9") or have been re-shot at reduced size (e. g. 70mm) and whether the original negatives have been destroyed.

Check all the cans as soon as you receive them to make sure they can be opened. DO THIS BEFORE YOU ROLL OUT ANY OF THE FILM ON THE LIGHT TABLE.

Photograph each can's label at 2mp.

Take shots of the actual frames in 4:3 "squarish" mode at 20mp. While 9"x9" photos are actually square, the 4:3 mode is a rectangular shape as close to square as possible, if you frame a negative so that the top and bottom of the negative are in the shot, for example, there will be a little extra space to the left & right of the frame. We expect this "white space" effect and in fact actually prefer a small amount of white space all the way around the image. We just want as much of the camera shot filled with the negative as possible without cropping off part of the negative. A single .jpg of the frame is the best image for our purposes.

The tripod can be adjusted before each picture is taken. You don't have to rely solely on the camera's zoom features.

Also, don't forget you can connect the camera to your laptop while it's mounted on the tripod! Then you can review calibration shots before you shoot the frames.

Sometimes the camera's zoom-in steps don't allow for the proper zoom-in adjustment. In these cases, it will be advantageous to "overzoom" into a shot and then back the tripod away from the negative to fine tune the zoom-in.